They appreciate morning sun more than afternoon sun. In a hot climate zone like Florida, many roses will thrive with 4 hours of morning sun and some afternoon shade.
Some roses may tolerate some shade provided by deciduous trees, but they will bloom less often. Roses thrive in sun and suffer in shade.
Avoid planting them too close together. It is good to know the size of the mature rose in order to get the correct spacing between plants.
It is most important to plant your roses in rich, well-prepared soil.
Water deeply once a day for the first few months if possible (especially in summer or if you live in a hot climate). Once the rose is established, give the rose a deep watering 2 -3 times a week depending on the season and your climate. Deep watering other than frequent watering encourages deep root systems helping the rose survive times of drought. If possible it is better to water at ground level so the leaves do not get wet. If you must use overhead watering, do so in the early morning so the sun can dry the leaves.
Compost, Compost Tea and Composted Manures are the best sources of Organic nutrients.
At planting time, a slow release fertilizer high in nitrogen (milorganite) is recommended.
After new growth appears on the roses, a liquid fertilizer (Fish Emulsion combined with Liquid Seaweed) can be used every 2 to 3 weeks.
The best formula is approximately 2 – 3 ounces of each per gallon.
Do not fertilize heat-stressed plants.
Avoid feeding during winter months.
It is best to fertilize just before a heavy bloom cycle (early spring and early fall).
I recommend only organic fertilizers which feed the living soil micro-organisms which in turn feed the plant when needed.
Any number over 10 kills the micro-organisms and good bacteria in the soil.
Trace elements (found in Liquid Seaweed) are also important which are not found in your basic NPK fertilizers.
The most available Organic product on the market and the easiest to get is a product called Rose-tone™ Organic Rose Fertilizer made by Espoma™. This product is carried by both Lowes™ and Home Depot™ and most garden centers. One to two cups per rose bush depending on size and watered in well is advised.
The easiest program of Organic feeding is to alternate granular and liquid feedings every 3 – 4 weeks during the growing season depending on your soil fertility.
Below is a list of individual soil amendments, kitchen scraps and the nutrients they provide.
You can combine these yourself if you have a lot of roses to make a well-balanced fertilizer or use them individually to correct deficiencies you may have in your soil in your particular neck of the woods. Most are found at your local feed store.
Dish soap and water goes a long way to discourage insects or you can add a little All Seasons Oil to the mixture as well.
Cayenne pepper spray works good for stink bugs, caterpillars grasshoppers and other insects that tend to eat blooms.
A strong stream of water can wash off aphids or spider mites.
Nothing beats daily observation and hand-picking early infestations.
Note: Roses all bloom at different times and schedules. Many bloom prolifically during spring and fall with less or no blooms in summer. Like us, they don’t like the high humidity! Be patient, learning to appreciate the changes taking place with each rose. They will become like close friends, sharing their beauty & love!
Here is a list of individual soil amendments, kitchen scraps and the nutrients they provide. You can combine these yourself if you have a lot of roses to make a well- balanced fertilizer or use them individually to correct deficiencies you may have in your soil in your neck of the woods. Most are found at your local feed store. Also listed are some natural fungicides and insecticides.
|Coffee Grounds||Lowers ph|
|Epsom Salts||Magnesium and Sulfur|
|Milorganite||Nitrogen and Iron|
|Actino-Iron||Iron and Beneficial Soil fungi|
|Wood Ash||Calcium and Potassium|
|Gypsum||Calsium and Sulfur|
|Bone Meal||Phosphorus and Calcium|
|Alfalfa Meal||growth hormone|
|Kelp Meal||Potassium and Trace Elements|
|Cottonseed meal||Nitrogen (lowers ph)|
|Blood meal||Nitrogen (may burn roots)|
|Garden Sulfur||Sulfur (lowers ph)|
|Sul-po-mag||Sulfur, Potassium, Magnesium (may burn)|
|Sequestered or Chelated Iron||Iron|
|Rock Phosphate||Calcium (raises ph)|
|Baking Soda||Black Spot|
|Hydrogen Peroxide||Black Spot, Root Rot|
|Neem Oil||Black Spot|
|Organicide||Black Spot, Thrips|
|Lady Bugs||aphids, spider mites|
|Beneficial Mites||spider mites|
|Insecticidal Soap||spider mites, aphids|
|Dr. Bronner’s Soap||all insects, sticker|
|Green Cure||Black Spot|
|Listerine||root rot, mosquitoes|
|Liquid Seaweed||good bacteria|
|Too much Potassium kills good microbes.|
|Any number over 10 kills good bacteria.|
|Roses actually have a natural immunity to fungus.|
|Hand-picking diseased leaves goes a long way.|
The USDA plant hardiness zone is one guide to indicate a plant’s ability to withstand an average minimum temperature. However, other factors, including soil type, moisture, drainage, humidity and exposure to sun and wind can have a direct effect on the success of a plant’s survival.
Use this as a guide, keeping the other factors in mind when deciding where and what to plant.